Disaster
Preparedness Shopping List for Rabbits
Are
you prepared to take care of your rabbit when a disaster strikes? If not, NOW is the time to stock up on the
items that you will need so you will not be caught unprepared. Listed below is a handy shopping list for you
to use. The next time you buy food or
supplies for your rabbit, take this list with you. Don’t put off doing what you should do now—it
may just make the difference between being able to keep your rabbit alive when
a disaster strikes.
Here
are the supplies that you should have in a disaster kit for rabbits. Adjust the amounts, depending upon the number
of rabbits you have.
FOOD
Since
a rabbit’s digestive system is very sensitive to stress, you should keep your
rabbit’s diet as close to normal as possible during a disaster. In an ideal situation you would be able to
access fresh vegetables for your rabbit, but most likely during a disaster that
is going to be difficult, if not impossible.
You should have at least two weeks supply of high quality rabbit pellets
at all times. Keep the pellets in an
airtight, waterproof container, and rotate the pellets and least once every two
months. You can store the pellets in air
tight containers in the freezer, but if you do, make sure to include a large
sign that says “FREEZER” in your emergency supplies so that they are not
forgotten during an evacuation. Include a food bowl.
HAY
Good
quality grass hay is an essential part of a rabbit’s diet, and having a steady
supply during a disaster will help keep your rabbit’s digestive system
functioning properly. You should have an
airtight, waterproof container large enough to carry two weeks worth of hay
available, but the hay should ONLY be sealed in the container for transport
during a disaster. Hay should NOT be
kept in a sealed container for any length of time, as it will mold and cause
health problems. Never feed your rabbit
moldy hay. Store the hay in the
container but keep it unsealed, and be sure to rotate the hay at least once
every two months.
WATER
Have
at least two weeks supply of water at all times. Store water in a plastic container and keep
in a cool, dry place. Rotate water at
least once every two months. Have a
water bowl to place in your rabbit’s cage.
SANITATION
Include a
small litterbox and enough litter to last 2 weeks. A small
container of dish soap to clean water and food bowls, some paper towels, some
plastic bags, and a litterbox and cage cleanser.
EVACUATION CAGE
Have assembled and ready to go a carrier to evacuate
each rabbit in your household. An alternative to a carrier is an “Evacsak.” Similar to a pillowcase, it takes up a lot less
space than a carrier, and if you have a house full of animals that need to be transported you can get a lot more Evacsaks
into a car. (Evacsaks can be purchased by contacting
Animal Care Equipment and Services at 1-800-338-ACES). Also have a carrier or
other traveling cage to house your rabbit if you must be away from home for an
extended period. Have a temporary cage large enough for a litterbox.
Some of the larger carriers will work, and collapsible dog crates come in all
sizes and work well for rabbits. Have a towel or other cover for the cage or
carrier so your rabbit has a chance to feel secure and calm and will be
protected from intrusion by other animals or people. If you
are housing your rabbit indoors at a secure, safe location (such as a friend’s
house), you may consider a collapsible exercise pen. Use only if your
rabbit will not jump out of the pen and only if no other animals can get into
the pen. If you are unsure in any way about the safety and security of your
location, use an exercise pen only for supervised exercise periods.
With bonded rabbit
pairs (or trios, etc.), house them together if possible. If using carriers they
can be transported together, but if you’re using Evacsaks
you should have only one rabbit per sack. You can tie the strings of the Evacsaks together for rabbits that should be housed
together on arrival. Be certain to have your name and emergency contact
information written on all carriers and Evacsaks.
FIRST AID
A basic first aid kit may contain Betadine solution
for cleaning and disinfecting, antibiotic ointment, tweezers, scissors, cotton
swabs, Simethicone, powdered Pedialyte
(packets that can be reconstituted), oral syringes, Critical Care or vegetable
baby food for force feeding if necessary (be sure to rotate your supply of baby
food to keep it fresh), and a digital thermometer. A first aid book for
rabbits, such as Rabbit Health in the 21st Century, is also suggested.
PROTECTING YOUR RABBIT FROM HEAT STROKE
Rabbits are very prone to heat stroke. If you need to evacuate when the
temperature is above 90 degrees F, you’ll need a way to keep your rabbit cool.
Provide shade by covering part of his/her enclosure with a towel. Freeze 1- or
2-liter bottles of water to take with you when you evacuate. If you are unable
to refreeze these bottles, you may be able to get ice from the Red Cross. Pack
a couple watertight containers that can be filled with ice. Some ice can also
be placed in your rabbit’s water bowl. You can also dampen your rabbit’s ears
and body with cool water (do not soak your rabbit or dunk his/her ears in cold
water) and fan him/her. If you have access to electricity and a fan, dampen the
towel over his/her cage and let the fan blow through the towel.
MEDICATIONS
If your rabbit is on long-term medication, have on
hand a 2-week supply, since your vet may not be able to fill a prescription
right away. Keep your rabbit’s medical records with your disaster supplies.
PHOTOS & IDENTIFICATION
Pack current photos of your rabbit in case he or she is lost during the
disaster. Include yourself in some of the photos in case you must show proof of
guardianship. You may want to consider having your rabbit microchipped
so that he or she can be identified.